Saturday, July 4, 2015

Camino de Santiago - Part 5 - Najera > Ages

Camino de Santiago - Part 5
Najera> Santo Domingo> Bolorado> Ages

Camino de Santiago Blog Links:

Day 9 / Thursday, May 25, 2015
Najera> Santo Domingo

Day 10 / Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Santo Domingo> Bolorado

Day 11 / Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Bolorado> Ages

Day 9 / Thursday, May 25, 2015
Najera> Santo Domingo

From its beginnings, Santo Domngo has always Been linked to the camino. Its founder, Domingo Garcia, was born in Viloria de Rioja (Burgos) in 1019. He decided to devote His life to God and tried to enter the monasteries of San Millan and Vavanera, but was not accepted. Around the year 1040 he became a hermit in the forests which occupied the site on which this city now stands. From his home he was able to see how difficult the pilgrimage was for those undertaking it and he began to work to help them by building a bridge to cross the River Oja, as well as a hospital where pilgrims could seek refuge, roads communicating Najera and Redecilla el Camino (Burgos) and a little church. They received approval from Alfonso VI of Castile, who provided the piece of land where the first church was built, completed in 1106, but which sadly no longer exists. When he died, on 12th May 1109, he was buried in the middle of the pilgrimage, which is what he wanted. His followers maintained the little village, which later took his name and his work continued, which works nowadays keeping his memories, traditions and beliefs alive by working with pilgrims in the hostel.




Santo Domingo de la Calzada  is one of The most prominent stopping places on the Camino de Santiago. The Romanesque-Gothic cathedral was built between 1158 and 1235. The monumental high altar, and the choir stalls are extremely ornate. However .. one of the main Reasons we were so eager to visit this church was because of the ... CHICKENS ! There are two chickens kept in the church in memory of the "Miracle of Santo Domingo," one of the most popular legends along the way. The first versions date back to Toulouse in the 12th century.
Legend tells of a German pilgrim called Hugonell who was walking to Santiago with his parents, When they decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The owner of the inn's daughter Immediately fell in love with him; however, when her feelings were not reciprocated, the girl, became and gry and placed a silver cup into his luggage. The boy was accused of theft. Thieves at the time were punished by hanging, and this was the fate of Hugonell. His parents, saddened by his death, continued on the pilgrimage, and upon arriving in Santiago de Compostela, began their return journey to visit the grave of their dead son. When they arrived in Santo Domingo however, they found their son was still hanging in the gallows, but miraculously still alive. Hogonell, anxiously said to them: "Santo Domingo Brought me back to life, please go to the Mayor's house and ask him to cut me down." Quickly, the parents arrived at the Mayor's house and told him of the miracle. The incredulous Mayor, who was preparing to have dinner with friends, responded: "That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat," and suddenly, the chickens came to life, sprouted feathers and beaks and began to crow. And so, to this day there is a saying about the town which goes: "Santo Domingo of the way, where the roosters crow after being roasted."
In front of the Mausoleum there is a Gothic stone and polychrome hen house about five meters high on the wall. It was built in the middle of the 15th century to house a hen and a rooster in memory of the most famous of Santo Domingo's miracles. There are documents dated from 1350 Pope Clement VI allowing these animals to live inside the cathedral.
Below the cage is a representation of the pilgrim being hanged, painted by Alonso Gallego.
Above the cage, there is a piece of wood from the gallows.

The chickens on display in the cathedral are exchanged every 21 days.

Be sure not to miss the small doors near the entrance that can take you up to the roof of the cathedral. The passageways that snake through the walls of the building give you a good idea of how this place of worship could also be used as a fortress, if needed. there are small portholes extending from the passageways that look down upon the outer walls, making a great shot for a bow and arrow to hit an invader.


Day 10 / Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Santo Domingo> Bolorado



(Sarah - Sanna - Elizabeth)

This is the first known photograph of the self-named 'Trankle Trio'. I initially called this photo 'Pretty Pilgrims Picking Poppies.' Each of These amazingly lovely ladies began the camino walking by themselves. By the second week they had formed their own little traveling group and spent another week walking together before their smaller group slowly merged and became a more visible part of our "Box of Chocolates Pilgrims" group. The original name of the group was 'Tthe Traquil Trio' but the name was changed in San Juan de Ortega when one of their new Dutch friends, Ole, couldn't pronounce tranquil and instead said 'trankle.' The rest is history.

Sarah  (from Australia), Sanna (from the Faroe Islands) and Elizabeth  (from the USA).

The Trankle Trio had a brilliant rating system devised to help classify the ancient and picturesque villages That We were passing through. Much like the  Michelin Guide Gives out 'stars' to the top hotels and restaurants throughout the major cities of the world, the Trio Awarded Tranquil villages 'tranquils' to rate the overall ambiance, friendliness, likability .. and tranquility. Their rating system evolved as the days Went by and it was always very flexible, but the key guidelines .. Were as Follows.

Tranquils would be Awarded to a village Depending on:
  • The number of STORK'S NESTS
  • Did the village have a MEDIEVAL BRIDGE
    • Additional tranquils Were Awarded Depending on the number of arches included in the medieval bridge. With a maximum of five additional arches tranquils for.
  • The number of German Shepherds
  • The amount of SPANGLISH used at the alburgues
  • The amount of SNORERS at the alburgue
  • The P2P (privacy to pee)
What made this a constant laugh attach for me is that there were so many things on this rating list that nobody had any control over.

However, these were the things that collectively, made the villages we passed through more lovely. Several times though I made suggestions as to things that could add to the tranquil ratings .. but the trio kindly asked me not to 'hijack' their tranquil rating system .. thank you very much!

Even still .. discussion of the tranquil system was the source of so many laughs over the weeks that followed. Also it turned into an ongoing fun activity to try and spot stork's nests, dogs, creative topiary and we always made sure to count the number of arches in every bridge we crossed.



Day 11 / Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Bolorado> Ages


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